Yosemite Decimal System - YDS Protection Rating

YDS Protection Rating

An optional protection rating indicates the spacing and quality of the protection available for a well-equipped and skilled leader. The letter codes chosen were, at the time, identical to the American system for rating the content of movies:

  • G: Good, solid protection.
  • PG: Pretty good, few sections of poor or non-existent placements.
  • PG13: OK protection, falls may be long but will probably not cause serious injury.
  • R: Runout, some protection placements may be very far apart (possibility of broken bones, even when properly protected).
  • X: No protection, extremely dangerous (possibility of death even when properly protected).

The G and PG ratings are often left out as they are typical of normal, everyday climbing. R and X climbs are usually noted as a caution to the unwary leader. Application of protection ratings varies widely from area to area and from guidebook to guidebook.

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