Grading
Various grading systems exist for via ferrata. Most focus on the level of difficulty of the hardest passage, and use a 5 or 6 point scale. Smith and Fletcher in Via Ferratas of the Italian Dolomites use grades 1 to 5. The Kurt Schall guides (Klettersteig-Atlas series) use a primarily an A to E 5 point scale, although a F grade has been recently been used, and intermediate grades are also used (e.g. C/D). The website www.klettersteig.de uses grades 1 to 6, although based on the Schall system. In France the 6 classic alpine grades are used: F – Facile; PD – Peu Difficile; AD – Assez Difficile; D– Difficile: TD – Très Difficile: ED – Extremement Difficile (although these grades bear no comparison to their Alpine counterparts). An outline of a 5 level grading system is provided below, but clearly individual guidebooks grades should be checked against their own definitions.
A | easy | Straightforward path, but exposed. Plenty of climbing aids, possible short ladders. Challenging walking rather than climbing. Surefootedness and a good head for heights main requirements. |
B | moderately difficult | Some steep terrain, smaller footholds, but climbing aids provided. Longer ladders possible. Essentially protected but exposed scrambling. Some use of arms. |
C | difficult | Steep to very steep rock, adequate climbing aids, long ladders possible (or even briefly overhanging). Good fitness and some arm strength required. |
D | very difficult | Very steep to vertical, maybe short/well aided overhanging sections, mainly very exposed. Some climbing aids but often wire rope only. Strong arms and hands required. |
E | extremely difficult | Vertical to overhanging; consistently exposed; very small footholds or friction climbing, usually no climbing aids other than the wire. Sustained arm strength required. Easier sections may be unprotected. |
One criticism of these grading system is that they ignores the severity and length of the difficulties – a long, high mountain route with extensive passages of grade D is very different to a short valley route also graded D, but with only a brief difficult section. To overcome this, additional ratings on the seriousness of the route are often provided – the Kurt Schall guides use a five level adjectival scale; Smith and Fletcher use a three point scale A–C. Most guidebooks provide some further information to help assess the nature of a route, such as the length of the route, the maximum height obtained, and even a grade for the quality of the protection.
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