Simone Moro - Mountain Climbing Career

Mountain Climbing Career

Simone Moro began his climbing activity in the Grigne, near his home city, and in the Dolomites. His father was his first Mentor followed by Alberto Cosonni and Bruno Tassi . In this period he was primarily involved in rock climbing, an activity that has never left. In 1992 he participated to his first Himalayan expedition to Mount Everest. One year later Moro climbed Aconcagua, achieving the first winter summit of that peak. During his career he has attempted a number of mountains including Cerro Mirador and Makalu in 1993; Shisha Pangma and Lhotse in 1994, Kangchenjunga in 1995; Fitz Roy, Dhaulagiri and summited Shisha Pangma in 1996; summited Lhotse in 1997 and tried Annapurna in December 1997 (avalanche buried his guide from Kazakhstan Anatoli Boukreev); tried Everest again in 1998; summited four peaks Pik Lenin (7134), Peak Korzhenevskaya (7105), Ismoil Somoni Peak (7495, formerly known as Pik Kommunizma), Pik Khan Tengri (7010) with young Kazakhstan guide Denis Urubko; then summited with him Everest in 2000 and Marble Wall in winter 2001; tried traverse Everest-Lhotse in 2001; summited three peaks: Mount Vinson, Cho Oyu and Everest in 2002; summited three peaks: Broad Peak, Elbrus and Kilimanjaro in 2003, summited Baruntse along a new route and tried Shisha Pangma and Annapurna in 2004; Batura and Batokshi peaks in 2005, Broad Peak in winter 2006 and 2007. In 2005 he achieved the first winter summit of Shisha Pangma, with Piotr Morawski. In 2006 he completed the solo, south-north traverse of Everest descending from the top in 4 hours.

Moro in 1996 climbed the west wall of Fitz Roy (3341m in Patagonia) in 25 hours from the base to the summit and back to the base. In 1996 he climbed Shisha Pangma South (8008m) without oxygen in 27 hours using skis in the descent from 7100 meters. In Winter 1997 he attempted the South face of Annapurna. During this attempt his climbing companions Anatoli Boukreev and Dimitri Sobolev were lost under an avalanche. In 2008 he achieved (with Herve Barmasse) the first ascent of Beka Brakai Chhok (6950 m Karakorum). The climbing was performed in pure alpine style and in 43 hours.

In January 2009 Moro completed the first winter ascent of Makalu with Denis Urubko.

In February 2011 Moro completed the first winter ascent of Gasherbrum II with Denis Urubko and Cory Richards.

In May 2001 during an attempt on the wall of Lhotse at 8000 he abandoned the climb to search, rescue and save English alpinist Tom Moores. Moro was recipient of the Fair Play Pierre de Coubertin trophy from UNESCO, the Civilian Gold Medal from Italian president Carlo Azeglio Ciampi and the David A. Sowles Memorial Award from the American Alpine Club.

In April 2013, Moro, along with Ueli Steck and Jon Griffiths, was attacked by a group of Sherpas, with the incident being reported worldwide.

1. 1997 — Lhotse
2. 2002 — Cho Oyu
3. 2005 — Shisha Pangma, first winter ascent
4. 2009 — Makalu, first winter ascent
5. 2000, 2002, 2006, 2010 — Mount Everest
6. 2011 — Gasherbrum II, first winter ascent