Glossary of Climbing Terms - S

S

Saddle

A high pass between two peaks, larger than a col.

Sandbag

A climb which receives a much lower grade than deserved. Also used as a verb when referring to the act of describing a climbing route as easier than it actually is.

Sardar or Sirdar

Head Sherpa mountain guide.

'scend

contraction of the word ascend, past tense: 'scended. See Send.

Scrambling

A type of climbing somewhere between hiking and graded rock climbing.

Screamer

1. A long and loud fall.
2. A nylon webbing structure consisting of one large loop sewn in multiple places to make a shorter length. The stitch-points are intentionally sewn with less than maximum possible strength. The screamer is attached with carabiners between an anchor point, particularly one of dubious strength, and the climber. In the event of a fall the stitching of the sewn sections is designed to rip apart, absorbing some of the fall energy and decelerating the climber, thereby reducing the overall shock load on the dubious anchor. Screamer is a brand name of Yates Mountaineering.

Scree

Small, loose, broken rocks, often at the base of a cliff. Also an area or slope covered in scree. Scree is distinguished from Talus by its smaller size and looser configuration.

Screw on

A small climbing hold, screwed onto the wall in climbing gyms. Can be used for feet in a route regardless of its colour. Also referred to as a foot chip, chip or micro.

Second

A climber who follows the lead, or first, climber.

Self-Arrest

The act of planting the pick of your ice axe into the snow to arrest a fall in the event of a slip. Also a method of stopping in a controlled glissade.

Self-Belay

To perform belaying for ones-self.

Send

To cleanly complete a route. i.e. on-sight, flash, redpoint. Sometimes even on tr. See 'scend.

Serac

A large ice tower.

Sewing machine leg

The involuntary vibration of one or both legs resulting from fatigue or panic. Also known as "Scissor leg", "Elvis Presley Syndrome", or "Disco knee". Can often be remedied by bringing the heel of the offending leg down, changing the muscles used to support the weight of the climber

Sharp end

The end of the belay rope that is attached to the lead climber. "Being on the sharp end" refers to the act of lead climbing, which is considered more psychologically demanding than top-roping or following, since it may involve more route-finding, as well as the possibility of longer, more consequential falls.

Sherpa

A Sherpa is a person of the ethnic group of the same name that is located in the Himalayan Mountains. Also a generic term for mountaineering porters in Nepal (usually those working at or above base camp) regardless of their ethnic group

Short fixing

A traditionally-belayed lead climber reaches a new belay station, creates an anchor, tying the lead rope off to the anchor. The climber then switches over to self-belaying and continues to climb. Meanwhile the second climber ascends the fixed rope using ascenders (aka Jugging) and cleans the pitch. When the second reaches the belay, he or she anchors in and starts to belay the leader in the traditional way again. When the leader reaches the next belay the process is repeated.

Side pull

A hold that needs to be gripped with a sideways pull towards the body.

Simulclimbing

A technique where both climbers move simultaneously upward with the leader placing protection which the second removes as they advance. A device known as a Tibloc which allows the rope to only move in a single direction is sometimes used to prevent the second climber from accidentally pulling the lead climber off should the second slip.

Single Rope Technique (SRT)

The use of a single rope where one or both ends of the rope are attached to fixed anchor points.

Sit and spin

A method of starting a rappel from a cliff edge, accomplished by sitting with legs over the edge and then spinning around to face the cliff while planting feet on the face.

Sit start

Starting a climb from a position in which the climber is sitting on the floor. This is common in climbing gyms in order to fit an extra move into the climb. Noted as SS or SDS in some topo guides.

Skittling

Climbing without following any specific color in a gym with color-designated routes/problems. Also referred to as "climbing the rainbow," since any and all colors of holds are used.

Skyhook

Slab

A relatively low-angle (significantly less than vertical) section of rock, usually with few large features. Requires slab climbing techniques.

Slab climbing

A particular type of rock climbing, and its associated techniques, involved in climbing rock that is less than vertical. The emphasis is on balance, footwork, and making use of very small features or rough spots on the rock for friction.

Slack

Portion of rope that is not taut, preferably minimized during belay.

SLCD

Abbreviation for spring-loaded camming device, a type of protection device. These are better known by the term cam.

Sling

Webbing sewn, or tied, into a loop.

Sloppy Plopping

Poor footwork as in "Nae Sloppy Ploppin'" - "you'll need accurate footwork to have any chance of flashing this".

Sloper

A sloping hold with very little positive surface. A sloper is comparable to palming a basketball.

Smearing

To use friction on the sole of the climbing shoe, in the absence of any useful footholds.

Snarg

A type of tubular ice screw that is inserted by hammering.

Snow fluke

An angled aluminium plate attached to a metal cable. The fluke is buried into snow, typically used as a deadman anchor.

Solo climbing

Setting and cleaning ones own protection on an ascent; climbing by oneself.

Spike

See horn.

Sport climbing

A style of climbing where form, technical (or gymnastic) ability and strength are more emphasized over exploration, self-reliance and the exhilaration of the inherent dangers involved in the sport. Sport climbing routes tend to be well protected with pre-placed bolt-anchors and lends itself well to competitive climbing.

Soupy

A hold that is wet and slimy from water or some other source.

Spinner

In indoor climbing, a hold that is not secure and spins in place when weight is applied.

Spotting

A method of protection commonly used during bouldering or before the leader has placed a piece of protection. The spotter stands beneath the climber, ready to absorb the energy of a fall and direct him away from any hazards.

Sprag

A type of hand position where the fingers and thumb are opposed.

Spraying

Giving unwanted - and unasked-for - beta to a fellow climber. Also, excessive, overly prominent, or boorish proclamation of one's own (often exaggerated) skills or exploits.

Static

Of a style of climbing or specific move, not dynamic.

Static rope

A non-elastic rope. Compare with dynamic rope.

Steep

Descriptive of any climbing face that is angled beyond vertical. See Overhang.

Stem

1. The simultaneous use of two widely spaced footholds.
2. Climbing using two faces that are at an angle less than 180° to each other.

Sticht plate

A belay device consisting of a flat plate with a pair of slots. Named after the inventor Franz Sticht.

Stick clip

A long stick on the end of which a climber can affix a quickdraw. It allows the climber to clip a quickdraw to the first bolt on a sport climb while still standing on the ground. This is especially useful if the first bolt is high up, and out of the comfort zone of the climber. A stick clip can be bought or easily made by attaching a quickdraw to a stick with a rubber band.

Stopper

1. A wedge-shaped nut made by Black Diamond.
2. A knot used to prevent the rope running through a piece of equipment.

Summit

1. The high point of a mountain or peak.
2. To reach such a high point.

Swami Belt

A kind of proto- climbing harness consisting of a long length of tubular webbing wrapped several times around the climbers body and secured with a water knot. Largely eschewed today in favor of commercial harnesses.

Sweeper

Refers to the last member or the tail of a climbing group. The sweeper's task is to spot and retrieve things that may have accidentally fallen from the preceding climbers; to make sure that no mess or gear is left behind; and to make sure that the rear is keeping up with the whole team. The term sweeper, a Filipino contribution to mountaineering vocabulary was introduced in 1998 and was inspired by The Cleaner character in the 1990 film Nikita, also known as La Femme Nikita by Luc Besson.

Swinging-lieback

A dynamic form of the lieback described above, rotating off one foot while maintaining a grip with that hand, then grabbing a high handhold at the deadpoint of the swing. This move is frequently reversible, unlike more aerial dynos.