Glossary of Climbing Terms - A

A

American death triangle

An anchor which is created by connecting a closed loop of cord or webbing between two points of protection, and then suspending the rope from a carabiner clipped to only one strand of said anchor. This creates a triangular shape in the webbing or cord, which places massively multiplied inward forces on the protection, making it a dangerous, ineffective anchor.

Abalakov thread

A type of abseiling point used especially in winter and ice climbing. Also known as V-thread.

Ablation zone

The area of a glacier where yearly melting meets or exceeds the annual snow fall.

Abseil

The process by which a climber can descend a fixed rope. Also known as Rappel.

ACR (Alpine Cock Ring)

An anchor method similar to a cordelette but that is dynamically equalizing. It employs a cord and a rappel ring.

Adze

A thin blade mounted perpendicular to the handle on an ice axe that can be used for chopping footholds.

Alpine knee

To use your knee as a way to gain ground on a climb.

Alpine start

To make an efficient start on a long climb by packing all your gear the previous evening and starting early in the morning, usually well before sunrise.

Altitude sickness

A medical condition that is often observed at high altitudes. Also known as Acute mountain sickness, or AMS.

Anchor

An arrangement of one or (usually) more pieces of gear set up to support the weight of a belay or top rope.

Approach

The path or route to the start of a technical climb. Although this is generally a walk or, at most, a scramble it is occasionally as hazardous as the climb itself.

Arête

1. A small ridge-like feature or a sharp outward facing corner on a steep rock face
2. Arête, a narrow ridge of rock formed by glacial erosion
3. A method of indoor climbing, in which one is able to use such a corner as a hold. See also dihedral.

Ascend

To climb a rope using aid device.

Ascender

A device for ascending on a rope.

Aspect

The direction in which a slope faces.

ATC

A proprietary belay device manufactured by Black Diamond. Has become common term for any tubular belay devices.

Automatic belay

A fast method for setting up a two-point anchor in sport climbing, using the climbing rope to attach to the anchor points.