Black Tie - The Elements of Black Tie

The Elements of Black Tie

Unlike white tie, which is very strictly regulated, black-tie ensembles can display more variation. In brief, the traditional components for men are:

  • A jacket with silk facings (usually grosgrain or satin) on a shawl collar, peaked lapel or notched lapel. Many current fashion stylists and writers see notched lapels as less formal although they (like peaked and shawl) were used (though somewhat rarely) in some of the early forms of the garment.
  • Trousers with a single silk or satin braid covering the outer seams
  • A black cummerbund (traditionally appropriate only in warm weather) or a low-cut waistcoat
  • A white dress shirt (a marcella or pleated front is traditional), French cuffs and cufflinks, and a turndown or winged standing collar (detachable collars, winged, are preferred, though they have become somewhat rare.)
  • A black silk bow tie matching the lapel facings
  • Shirt studs and cufflinks. Less formally, a fly-front or button down shirt may be substituted.
  • Black dress stockings, usually of silk or fine wool
  • Black shoes—traditionally patent leather court shoes (pumps); now often highly polished or patent leather Oxfords instead.

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